
Chef J. Trent Harris, the James Beard Award finalist behind Michelin-starred Mujō, expands beyond omakase at new Buckhead restaurant Koshu Club, where binchotan-grilled wagyu, thoughtful sake pairings, and richly layered vegetable dishes drive the menu. The spot comes from the Castellucci Hospitality Group, also behind Cooks & Soldiers and Iberian Pig.
Where Mujō is hushed and ceremonial, Koshu leans sultry and social. A glowing bar anchors the dimly lit dining room, while a carefully tuned soundtrack adds energy without overwhelming conversation. Even in its first week, the restaurant already feels like a serious player in Buckhead dining.
What to order
- The 4-ounce Kagoshima A5 wagyu steak ($90) is cooked rare and with a choice of sauces worth sampling. The daidai ponzu, bright with sweet citrus and acid, cuts through the richness of the buttery beef.
- The nasu agebitashi ($16) is a sleeper hit of Japanese eggplant steeped in soy-dashi broth. Silken and deeply savory, it’s among the menu’s most compelling dishes.
- The otoro aburi ($35) layers fatty tuna with crisp vegetables and kimijoyu, an egg yolk-based sauce that adds richness without muting the fish. Fresh wasabi brings bite.
- Crunchy yamitsuki cabbage ($16), glossed in sesame oil and garlic, delivers umami, while rounds of caramelized sweet potato fondant ($16) come bathed in a tart sauce that keeps the sweetness in check.
What to drink
- Three sommeliers guide pairings with sake, wine, and cocktails. Miyashita Brewery’s “Sunshine Country” junmai sake, earthy with notes of white sesame, pairs particularly well with the eggplant and wagyu.
- A magnum is opened nightly for a special by-the-glass pour; on a recent visit, it was a 2022 premier cru aligoté from Domaine Ponsot.
Insider tip
- A wagyu sandwich on milk bread is coming soon to the menu. Order it with the Caesar salad with grated egg ($22) for a full meal.
- Take a peek at the deep cellar on your way to the bathroom and spot heavy-hitters like Petrus, DRC, and La Tâche.
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