Sitting at the speckled green bar at Larakin, chef Jorom Paler drops a hulking slab of tuna onto the counter and grins. He points to the ombre marbling of fat like he’s introducing a friend. On Sundays and Mondays, the wine bar becomes Mikasa Omakase, his roaming pop-up that feels less like a restaurant and more like being invited into a particularly food-obsessed apartment. It’s his kasa, after all, and there are no house rules.
What to order
- The 13-course omakase ($135) moves through fresh sashimi and nigiri. The hon masu, or cherry salmon, topped with fried, crispy leeks, is a standout. The rosy fish has a watermelon-like sweetness, and the leeks give it a subtle onion note and texture.
- The highly umami Thai-leaning salad with seared tuna is a flavor bomb. Radicchio and endive are laced with fish sauce, palm sugar, and lime, hitting on salt and acid, and the pink peppercorn on the tuna offers heat.
- Get the sake, which was the Sake Ono junmai daiginjo on a recent visit. Also, try wines by the half glass with different courses, taking advantage of the wine bar. Natural orange wines, a surefire offering at Larakin, work well with sesame oil and soy sauce.
- If Paler offers catch-of-the-day uni as an add-on, say yes.
The vibe
Atlanta’s omakase boom has leaned formal and hushed; Mikasa is the opposite. Paler blends two different rice varieties (koshihikari and yumegokochi) for his nigiri courses — a rarity in small-operation sushi. The fish is from Japan, flown in on the day of dinner. Paler demonstrates infectious enthusiasm and lights up when talking about rare fish and knives. His buddy and front-of-house manager, Ralph Dizon, keeps the atmosphere light, sharing the duo’s dining stories and misadventures in New York.
How to book it
Dates and locations drop on Paler’s Instagram. Seatings typically run at 6 and 8 p.m.
Insider tip
MidCity cocktail bar in Midtown also hosts the pop-up, allowing Paler to pair nigiri courses with well-made cocktails.
