The New England-influenced Smithereens opened in the East Village in late 2024 and immediately became one of the city’s most interesting seafood restaurants, with savory dishes like the popular whole barbecue mackerel, along with desserts featuring vegetables and seaweed. Though many seafood spots are bright and airy like Nantucket summer, Smithereens is darker and more esoteric, like Salem winter. It’s an exciting option, especially if you’re bored with classic raw bars.
What to order
- The lacy buckwheat pancake’s ($24) earthy, slightly sweet flavor pairs nicely with the smoked bluefish spread beneath it.
- If available, get the rice with quahog clams ($26) and the abalone skewers with shiitake and egg yolk ($32). The char on the skewers balances the creamy, rich rice. It’s a favorite pairing of the kitchen’s, according to a server.
- Don’t skip dessert. The apple cider doughnut ($6) is crisp and light, with a sour jolt evoking green apple Jolly Ranchers. But there’s a reason the celery ice cream float is always available. The combination of salty, herbal celery soda; slightly sweet celery-root ice cream; and sour red wine vinegar-marinated cherries might sound unusual, but it works.
The vibe
Skinny and subterranean — you have to step down to get in — Smithereens has a submarine quality, especially at the stools facing the kitchen. (These are not the most comfortable nor spacious, so hold out for a table, unless you’re alone.) The corner nooks with moody lighting are good for a date, though there are bigger, brighter areas more suited for groups.
Insider tip
It’s worth getting the anadama bread with seaweed butter, despite the $9 price tag. It has a hearty texture and malty flavors, but more importantly, you’ll want something to sop up sauces, or leftover jammy egg yolk from the skewers.
