This ragù is dead simple and as good as it gets — just chicken, sofritto, herbs and water come together to make a deeply flavored but light-on-its-feet ragù. The consistency of this ragù, adapted from my book “Six Seasons of Pasta” (Artisan, 2025), written with Martha Holmberg, is even better the next day, once everything has settled in, so if you have time, make it a day ahead. And like so many ragùs, this one does well in the freezer, so this recipe makes twice the amount you’ll need to sauce a pound of pasta. (You can stash away the extra sauce for another night’s dinner.) The ragù is slightly brothy, with shreds of chicken; it’s delicate but not finely textured. A short noodle with large holes, such as paccheri or large rigatoni, or a longer noodle with a grabby texture, such as ruffly mafaldine, works well.
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