Diners visit Keens to feel like they’re in a bygone New York era, starting with an order of an ice-cold martini. The 140-year-old Midtown steakhouse, which has managed to not only stay relevant but is booked up nearly every night, is the textbook definition of an institution in NYC — one that, after all these years and quite a storied history, happens to still make a really dang good steak.
As is the case with many restaurants that old, Keens has had a few owners during its tenure. In late 2024, the restaurant was sold to now-ambassador to Rome, Tillman Fertitta — the billionaire CEO of hospitality group Landry’s, which owns Rainforest Cafe, Bubba Gump Shrimp, and more. In addition, since 2017, he’s been a partner at Catch Hospitality, which runs super-hot Corner Store, the Eighty-Six, Or’esh, and its namesake cast of Catch restaurants. Thankfully, since his $30 million Keens purchase in 2024, it seems like everything remains unchanged: The restaurant retains the same staff and general manager; the food is identical; and the 45,000 churchwarden pipes still adorn the ceiling.
What to order
- No trip to Keens is complete without the legendary mutton chop ($73). The 26-ounce, two-inch-thick piece of mature lamb (served with mint jelly and escarole) is my favorite meat dish in the whole city. It has a super-crusty exterior and is gloriously juicy inside. Pro tip: Order the Taste of Mutton from the specials section for a still very satisfying — albeit much smaller — version.
- If you’re really hungry (or want a dish to share), the king’s cut of the prime rib of beef ($89) is a good bet. The gargantuan, juicy piece nearly covers the entire plate and garners a head-turning reaction from fellow diners. It’s a jaw-dropper.
- No trip to a steakhouse is complete without creamed spinach, and Keens happens to make the platonic ideal version. Yes, it’s $17, but it’s indulgent, creamy, and just the right amount of spinach.
- Why don’t more restaurants have hot fudge sundaes on their dessert menu? The version at Keens ($15) is about half ice cream and half whipped cream — as it should be.
What to drink
The true measure of a good steakhouse is how well it makes a martini. Don’t skip their version — it’s incredibly cold, made exactly how you want, and quite large. What more could you ask for?
Insider tip
If you want a cool NYC restaurant souvenir, you can buy a Keens pipe of your very own from the restaurant ($45, plus $50+ for an inscribed message) or via Goldbelly ($65.95).
