The original Le Veau d’Or (French for “the golden calf”) opened on the Upper East Side in 1937, making it the city’s oldest French bistro. While it closed in 2019, after a five-year hiatus, chefs Riad Nasr and Lee Hanson (Frenchette, Le Rock, and most recently, Wild Cherry) reopened the famed spot to much fanfare and many accolades. It pays homage to its lengthy history with touches like an old framed menu on the wall, but don’t be mistaken: It’s one of the most lively and least stuffy fine dining restaurants around.
What to order
- Unless you’re seated at the bar, the only option is a prix fixe menu that’s a $85 two-course lunch and $135 three-course dinner, both with a substantial number of choices.
- For an appetizer, go for the pâté en croûte — the fatty pork pâté is encrusted in delicate pastry and comes with a very punchy mustard.
- The frog’s legs (cuisses de grenouille) are like succulent chicken wings sizzling in lots of garlicky, herby butter. Order them.
- The duck magret aux cerises — duck breast cooked until pink with a crispy, peppery skin, served with cherry sauce and radishes — should be on your table. The waiter said that it’s “their version of a burger.”
- For dessert, opt for the île flottante. The delicate, soft meringue in creme anglaise tastes like the most luscious melted vanilla ice cream.
What to drink
The martini can be made “our way” or “your way,” but there’s really only one right answer: The dry gin “our way” version comes with a salty vermouth sidecar, making it the best martini in the city.
Insider tip
If you can’t snag a coveted reservation, try walking in around 5 p.m. for one of the five bar seats, where you can also order a la carte.
