I’ve seen the photos, watched the TikToks, and heard my friends rave about it. But nothing prepared me for being on the ground in Guatemala.
Tucked between the Pacific and Caribbean, just below Mexico, this small but mighty Central American nation is a magnificent cornucopia of mountains, rainforest, and volcanoes.
It is, I think, the perfect encapsulation of what travel should be: life-changing experiences, wildlife straight out of a storybook, and sights that truly take your breath away at every turn. Allow me to explain.
After two flights and around 13 hours of travel time, I find myself landing in the heart of Guatemala City — so central, it makes London City Airport look weak in comparison.
Even before touchdown, you get a sense of the awe-inspiring nature to come, as the plane weaves seamlessly between some of the country’s 37 volcanoes.
Stepping out of my room the next morning, I’m stopped in my tracks by one. There, before my eyes, a bloomin’ giant volcano.
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She’s called Fuego and she’s smoking. My guide says it’s nothing to worry about – turns out, there are another two which are ‘constantly active’. I take a breath.
As I tuck into a breakfast of black beans, scrambled eggs and plantain, I’m informed of the day’s agenda.
Remember Fuego? We’re climbing her. On horseback.
What’s more, we’re going to cook a pizza inside her. Equal parts excited and nervous, and miles out of my comfort zone, we set out for the base.
My noble steed is Oreo, the adorable runt of the herd. She takes her time – a laid-back lady – and I find myself at the back of the group for most of the climb. Do I care?
Not at all, considering I haven’t been on horseback since a donkey ride in Weston-super-Mare when I was eight. At the top, a clay oven set into volcanic rock turns out blistered pepperoni…
They really weren’t kidding.
We descend and make for Antigua City. Fuego looms overhead as cobbled lanes, colourful facades, and elegant ruins come into view.
In Guatemalan culture, lunch is the main event of the day: pepián de pollo (chicken and veg in a tomato sauce) and chiles rellenos de res (stuffed bell peppers with beef) are served with reverence. Every mouthful is better than the last, there’s nothing else to say.
We find space in our bellies and grab roadside ice creams for 100 quetzals (equivalent to about £1) before I stumble across the coolest Starbucks I think I’ve ever seen (I know it’s not very authentic of me, but look at it).
In Antigua City, the Santa Catalina Arch is what most people recognise, and it is perfect for a selfie.
The city is one of the smallest I’ve ever seen, laid out in a parallel grid formation. It’s here that I begin to understand Guatemala’s increasing popularity — international arrivals have climbed in the past year.
The only question is why it’s taken the world this long to catch on.
Later that evening, we visit Maxān, and my first-ever Mesoamerican fusion restaurant. As a foodie, this is one of the most exciting meals I’ve had for a long time, and I’m not surprised to discover it is a locals‑recommended destination with ‘the best ceviche in town’.
The picky bits situation puts M&S to shame and the churrasco steak is cooked to perfection. After washing it down with a mojito that costs less than a fiver and a cold local Gallo (Guatemala’s major beer brand that is equal parts delicious in taste and in cost), I am in budget grubber nirvana.
The next day, I manifest an extra stomach and sample Guatemala’s culinary showstoppers: coffee and cocoa.
Our first stop is R. Dalton’s coffee estate, and I find it hard to fathom the sheer size of the place. Thousands upon thousands of coffee plants stretch out in immaculate rows, each one hand-planted by local women.
After meeting the farm’s donkey and panic-buying half of the gift shop, we head for a lesson in chocolate making.
Our host is the Guatemalan equivalent of Wonka himself, a kooky character with a heart of gold, who walks us through the region’s rich cocoa history.
Turns out, the Mayans first discovered its healing powers long before the Swiss came along and sweetened the deal by adding milk.
On we ride to Lake Atitlán, a volcano crater‑turned‑lake that is the deepest in Central America. It takes around four hours to travel here, but when you’re loaded up on petrol station snacks and surrounded by breathtaking scenery, time flies.
We stay in Panajachel town (commonly referred to as ‘Pana’). Prices are reasonable and the nightlife is wild — there’s rap battles in a corner bar and a local alternative to the Hard Rock Cafe with aspiring artists belting their hearts out. I will return.
A short boat ride takes us to the villages of Santa Catarina Palopó, San Antonio Palopo before we spend the afternoon in the artsy town of San Juan La Laguna.
This place is insane. Music and laughter fill the dizzingly steep main street, with bright umbrellas lining the walkways and stores filled with tatty goods that will delight every trinket lover.
The next morning, we hop on an early flight from Guatemala City north to Mundo Maya, a pocket‑sized international airport nudging the Belize border.
It is my shortest‑ever flight at just 35 minutes, but it beats the alternative eleven‑hour car journey around windy roads.
Our stomachs lead us to Flores, a pocket-sized lakeside town, which is a solid layover for grabbing breakfast en route to the legendary rainforest and national park: Tikal.
Doused in high‑strength DEET and with a weather eye out for jaguars, I am as ready as I can be for my jungle debut.
With 57,600 hectares of wildlife and meticulously‑kept Mayan ruins from an ancient capital, it’s no wonder this double UNESCO World Heritage Site leaves me speechless.
Over 300 species of birds, 200 types of trees and a smattering of monkeys, wildcats and tapirs call this place home.
Seeing them in the wild is something I haven’t experienced before, and my inner David Attenborough is shrieking. The 2000‑year‑old temples are the icing on the cake. And with only 5% of ruins currently uncovered, you can really sense the size of the ancient community that once lived here.
My final day in the glorious place is spent at the lesser‑known sister site, Yaxha, which is renowned as the original Mayan ceremonial centre. Wildlife thrives here too, and between the tiny carrier ants to the giant century‑old oak trees, the sheer diversity of life leaves you feeling totally revitalised.
I leave Guatemala full of coffee, colour, and a new definition of what travel is.
I write this already plotting a return, because where else can you climb smoking volcanoes, sip on world‑class coffee, and rub elbows with ancient gods in the jungle all before breakfast?
Getting to Guatemala and need-to-know details
More than a dozen airlines fly from the UK to Guatemala. The most popular route is from London Heathrow to La Aurora Airport, and return fares typically start from £1,241.
Chris Buswell flew with American Airlines via Dallas on the outbound journey and via Miami on return. Domestically, he flew with Avianca.
The best time to visit is in dry season, from January to May.
Be aware that the official language is Spanish, and in more rural areas English is not widely spoken.
The currency is the Guatemalan Quetzal, and it’s best to stick to bottled or filtered water.
